Gear Scene About BD

20 Questions
DOB
I was born in Italy in 1971 but grew up in Argentina spending a couple of years in Brazil in between. In the 1990s I spent a few years in Europe before settling in the U.S. When our unelected President, Generalissimo Bush, passed the Patriot Act, which restricts heavily the rights of greencard holders, I became a U.S. citizen.

Years Climbing
22

Achievements
Many climbs in Patagonia, amongst which the first ascent of Cerro Torre’s North face via a new route “El Arca de los Vientos” and the first complete ascent of Fitz Roy's North Face, done alpine style. Many ascents in Yosemite, including a number of what at the time were speed ascents. Did a fast Tetons Grand Traverse in 2000. Also did a fast ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, Alaska. Completed the first and still only link up of Canada's three most famous multi-pitch ice-climbs: Polar Circus, Weeping Wall/Weeping Pilar and Slipstream. Rare winter ascents of "Tempi Moderni" and "The Fish" on the South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites.

Favorite climbing areas?
The Dolomites, for the endless amount of climbing there is, and for offering a great compromise between alpine “discomfort” and rock-climbing pleasure.

Favorite routes or regions?
The Fish on Marmolada is just superbe. In the U.S. the Direct Beckey route in the Sawtooth’s Perch comes to mind, great granite in a beautiful setting.

Describe your climbing background?
Mostly a rock climber, but I can fake my way up waterfalls too. I love to walk, and before having hip problems I loved to run. I prefer an easy climb that allows me to travel through the scenery than a hard one that requires a lot of time and patience. I do OK at being efficient, and that is what gets me up stuff.

Describe a memorable climbing experience?
Linking Polar Circus, Weeping Wall/Weeping Pillar and Slipstream with Bruno Sourzac was a great day. I had never done a link up before, nor have I done any since. I had not done much soloing on ice, and that day we hardly roped up. Driving from one waterfall to the other we got charged up with Mano Negra’s eclectic music. We got to see a lot of terrain that day. I had not done any of the climbs before that day.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next 5 years?
The last few years, since passing 30, the main goal has been not to get injured. Tapping on the experience I have I can still get up some decent climbs even if I only have a fraction of the fitness I used to have.

Any near death experiences?
I only fell once where I should not have. I was with a client, and when he fell I was not be able to hold him. We both flew down “no fall terrain” but by some miracle we both stopped. I don’t remember being scared for my own physical integrity. My big concern was for him. Luckily we both walked away.

What are your future plans and goals?
I have a couple more dreams in the Cerro Torre massif, in Patagonia, then I will be ready to see some different country.

Who inspires you?
Marko Prezelj, for being an “animal” and a phenomenal guy.

Describe the perfect day of climbing?
Kent McClannan and Bruce Miller pick me up and we go out to Eldo for a day of cragging. With them, climbing feels very much like play and I am reminded why I got into it in the first place.

Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
The Camalot .3. It is very small but still has great holding power.

How do you train when you're not climbing?
Ride my bike, guide (no guiding is not climbing, at least I don’t view it as such).

Stranded on an island—what one food do you bring?
Chard, two million pounds of chard… I must have been a cow on a previous life. I love greens.

What are you reading right now?
Wilderness and the American Mind by Roderick Frazier Nash

What's playing on your stereo? iPod? In your head?
Sidestepper, a Colombian-English group.

If you could be any animal what would it be and why?
A condor. I grew up with them flying over my head at Frey, Bariloche. They seem to have few predators and with the wingspan they have they get to see a lot of terrain with very little effort.

Seinfeld, Simpsons, or Taxi?
Could care less for either. I grew up without TV and don’t have it now either so I don’t really know much about any of them. What is Taxi?

Read a trip report about Rolando and Colin Haley's recent first ascent of the Torre Traverse in Argentine Patagonia.

 

 

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