20
Questions
DOB
I was born in Italy in 1971 but grew up in
Argentina spending a couple of years in Brazil
in between. In the 1990s I spent a few years
in Europe before settling in the U.S. When
our unelected President, Generalissimo Bush,
passed the Patriot Act, which restricts heavily
the rights of greencard holders, I became
a U.S. citizen.
Years Climbing
22
Achievements
Many climbs in Patagonia, amongst which
the first ascent of Cerro Torre’s
North face via a new route “El
Arca de los Vientos” and the first
complete ascent of Fitz Roy's North Face,
done alpine style. Many ascents in Yosemite,
including a number of what at the time
were speed ascents. Did a fast Tetons
Grand Traverse in 2000. Also did a fast
ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount
Foraker, Alaska. Completed the first
and still only link up of Canada's three
most famous multi-pitch ice-climbs: Polar
Circus, Weeping Wall/Weeping Pilar and
Slipstream. Rare winter ascents of "Tempi
Moderni" and "The Fish" on
the South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites.
Favorite climbing areas?
The Dolomites, for the endless amount of
climbing there is, and for offering a
great compromise between alpine “discomfort” and
rock-climbing pleasure.
Favorite routes or regions?
The Fish on Marmolada is just superbe.
In the U.S. the Direct Beckey route in
the Sawtooth’s Perch comes to mind,
great granite in a beautiful setting.
Describe your climbing background?
Mostly a rock climber, but I can fake my
way up waterfalls too. I love to walk,
and before having hip problems I loved
to run. I prefer an easy climb that allows
me to travel through the scenery than
a hard one that requires a lot of time
and patience. I do OK at being efficient,
and that is what gets me up stuff.
Describe a memorable climbing
experience?
Linking Polar Circus, Weeping Wall/Weeping
Pillar and Slipstream with Bruno Sourzac
was a great day. I had never done a link
up before, nor have I done any since.
I had not done much soloing on ice, and
that day we hardly roped up. Driving
from one waterfall to the other we got
charged up with Mano Negra’s eclectic
music. We got to see a lot of terrain
that day. I had not done any of the climbs
before that day.
How do you see climbing evolving in the
next 5 years?
The last few years, since passing 30, the
main goal has been not to get injured.
Tapping on the experience I have I can
still get up some decent climbs even if
I only have a fraction of the fitness I
used to have.
Any near death experiences?
I only fell once where I should not have.
I was with a client, and when he fell
I was not be able to hold him. We both
flew down “no fall terrain” but
by some miracle we both stopped. I don’t
remember being scared for my own physical
integrity. My big concern was for him.
Luckily we both walked away.
What are your future plans and goals?
I have a couple more dreams in the Cerro
Torre massif, in Patagonia, then I will
be ready to see some different country.
Who inspires you?
Marko Prezelj, for being an “animal” and
a phenomenal guy.
Describe the perfect day of climbing?
Kent McClannan and Bruce Miller pick me
up and we go out to Eldo for a day of
cragging. With them, climbing feels very
much like play and I am reminded why
I got into it in the first place.
Favorite piece of BD equipment and why?
The Camalot .3. It is very small but still
has great holding power.
How do you train when you're
not climbing?
Ride my bike, guide (no guiding is not
climbing, at least I don’t view
it as such).
Stranded on an island—what one
food do you bring?
Chard, two million pounds of chard… I
must have been a cow on a previous life.
I love greens.
What are you reading right now?
Wilderness and the American Mind by Roderick
Frazier Nash
What's playing on your stereo? iPod? In
your head?
Sidestepper, a Colombian-English group.
If you could be any animal what would
it be and why?
A condor. I grew up with them flying over
my head at Frey, Bariloche. They seem to
have few predators and with the wingspan
they have they get to see a lot of terrain
with very little effort.
Seinfeld, Simpsons, or Taxi?
Could care less for either. I grew up without
TV and don’t have it now either
so I don’t really know much about
any of them. What is Taxi?
Read
a trip report about Rolando and Colin
Haley's recent first ascent of the Torre
Traverse in
Argentine Patagonia.