Describe your climbing background:
I became interested in climbing on my own and started by bouldering because I didn’t know any other climbers. Gradually I met some people to do routes with, but by the time I started trad climbing I could boulder Font 7c, so I got good quite quickly. It didn’t take long to get into climbing new routes because they are everywhere in Scotland.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
Yes definitely. Seeing the route Requiem on Dumbarton’s main face the first time I ever went climbing. Straight away I decided I had to climb it no matter what. It was the hardest climb in the country at the time.

What are you up to when you’re not climbing?
Hanging out with my wife Claire. I also spend a lot of time eating.

Any training advice or suggestions?
You need to understand the basic physical training principles. Most climbers stray from them at some point. Secondly, have a clear plan in your head on what you are training for and how much better you want to get in a set amount of time. This way you can start to tell if you are going to manage it or not, and then do something about it (hopefully!).

Who or what inspires you?
Who? – Anyone who shows commitment to what they do.
What? – Nice pieces of rock anywhere, that look impossible at first acquaintance.

How do you see climbing evolving in the next five years?
Well the main change in the past five years has been a big rise in the number of high level sport climbers. I think this will continue and I think the numbers of people doing hard trad climbing will not change or maybe even decrease. That’s a bit of a shame really! I think dry tooling will go out of fashion at the top level because it’s not really hard for super fit climbers. Hopefully mixed climbers will start coming to Scotland more because the challenges of onsighting M-hard in dangerous situations on rock that is plastered in snow and rime is the only decent challenge around for short technical mixed climbs.

What do you think about the 5.15 grade?
I would like to see it done without bolts.

Care to comment on: pre-clipping more than one draw on sport routes or pre-placed gear on trad routes, chipping/comfortizing holds, glue vs. no glue?
I could write an essay! But I will summarize it by saying the ethical standard should be elevated over time, not eroded.

Do you have any vices and what are they?
If I go to a good climbing venue I can’t leave it alone until I’ve done all the routes I want to.

Any near death experiences?
Yeah, I’ve had quite a few escapes—avalanched on Ben Nevis, a fall of over 300m and some bad trad falls including one where my face brushed the grass after I dove headfirst from the last move on a trad pitch ripping all my pro out.

Are you a fan of climbing history? Explain?
Yes, I am…I suppose. Scottish climbing history is immensely interesting, especially in the last 60 years with the evolution of mixed climbing from the step-cutting hard men of the 1950s and all the rivalries between factions of climbers from different areas of the country and from different social classes. That kind of thing seems to happen less these days.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
My immediate goal is to do the first E11 trad route in the world. After that I want to open the hardest mixed route in the world back here in Scotland—it will be long, with hard dry tooling moves but also difficult mountaineering logistics and most importantly, very bold and serious.

Read Dave's recent trip report about his first ascent of Don't Die of Ignorance, Ben Nevis, Scotland.