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20
Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing when I was 10 years old, in
the Cascades with my dad and brother. Unlike most
climbers my age, I learned to alpine climb first,
and have slowly been learning to rock climb since.
All my early climbs involved an 8-mm rope, a small
selection of chocks, crampons, ice axe and a swami
belt—I didn't even own my first harness until
I had already been climbing a few years. The North
Cascades are my home range, and I particularly love
climbing in the North Cascades in winter—truly
remote, heinous weather and beautiful peaks draped
in tons of snow.
Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for
you?
I
made the second winter ascent of Mount Johannesburg’s
Northeast Buttress with my good friend Mark Bunker
several years ago, in basically the worst week of
weather that entire winter. Although I have done
much harder climbs since, it is probably the hardest
climb I've ever done relative to my ability-level
at the time. We spent four days on the climb, during
which time it was socked in, windy and dumping constantly.
It was the first time I pitched a bivy tent on tiny
ledges and slept tied in, the first time my sleeping
bag froze solid, the first time I ran out of food,
the first time I ran out of fuel and the first time
I got hypothermic!
What
do you do when you’re not climbing?
I spend a lot of time skiing, and otherwise summon
just enough motivation to hopefully soon finish my
BS in geology.
Any
training advice or suggestions?
Cross-training
is certainly helpful, but the best training for
climbing is climbing—and it's
way more fun!
Who or what inspires you?
I
am inspired by many climbers and ascents. The climbing
objectives I find the most inspiring are peaks
that are extremely difficult to climb by any route—it
doesn't feel very contrived if you are just barely
able to climb the peak's easiest route. Mountains
such as Cerro Torre (sin Compressor), Torre Egger,
Gasherbrum IV, Latok I...
Any thing that really irks you in the mountains? Peak fees, garbage and mountain guides who think
they own the place!
What's playing in your stereo/iPod/head right now? Bjork, Sigur Ros, Tool, Alice in Chains, Ween
What books are you reading right now or read that
you liked? My
all-time favorite book is "Endurance." Probably
the most amazing adventure story ever recorded, of
Shackelton's failed South Pole expedition and survival.
Seinfeld or Simpsons? I
rarely watch TV, but “Da Ali G” show
is pretty awesome.
What are your future plans or goals in climbing? To climb aesthetic routes on difficult peaks. My
current goal is to improve my rock free-climbing
skills because I think it would be beneficial for
my alpine climbing.
Read
a trip report about Colin and Rolando Garibotti's
recent first ascent of the Torre Traverse in Argentine
Patagonia.
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