Gear Scene About BD

Age:
Years Climbing:
Favorite Alpine Climbing Area:
Favorite Rock Climbing Area:
22
12
Argentine Patagonia, where perfect granite, good ice and dream-like spires make the ultimate alpine climbing playground.
The most wonderful rock climbing I've done is in the Lofoten Islands in Norway, with awesome ocean-side granite.

20 Questions
Describe your climbing background:
I started climbing when I was 10 years old, in the Cascades with my dad and brother. Unlike most climbers my age, I learned to alpine climb first, and have slowly been learning to rock climb since. All my early climbs involved an 8-mm rope, a small selection of chocks, crampons, ice axe and a swami belt—I didn't even own my first harness until I had already been climbing a few years. The North Cascades are my home range, and I particularly love climbing in the North Cascades in winter—truly remote, heinous weather and beautiful peaks draped in tons of snow.

Was there a big breakthrough or defining moment for you?
I made the second winter ascent of Mount Johannesburg’s Northeast Buttress with my good friend Mark Bunker several years ago, in basically the worst week of weather that entire winter. Although I have done much harder climbs since, it is probably the hardest climb I've ever done relative to my ability-level at the time. We spent four days on the climb, during which time it was socked in, windy and dumping constantly. It was the first time I pitched a bivy tent on tiny ledges and slept tied in, the first time my sleeping bag froze solid, the first time I ran out of food, the first time I ran out of fuel and the first time I got hypothermic!

What do you do when you’re not climbing?
I spend a lot of time skiing, and otherwise summon just enough motivation to hopefully soon finish my BS in geology.

Any training advice or suggestions?
Cross-training is certainly helpful, but the best training for climbing is climbing—and it's way more fun!

Who or what inspires you?
I am inspired by many climbers and ascents. The climbing objectives I find the most inspiring are peaks that are extremely difficult to climb by any route—it doesn't feel very contrived if you are just barely able to climb the peak's easiest route. Mountains such as Cerro Torre (sin Compressor), Torre Egger, Gasherbrum IV, Latok I...

Any thing that really irks you in the mountains?
Peak fees, garbage and mountain guides who think they own the place!

What's playing in your stereo/iPod/head right now?
Bjork, Sigur Ros, Tool, Alice in Chains, Ween

What books are you reading right now or read that you liked?
My all-time favorite book is "Endurance." Probably the most amazing adventure story ever recorded, of Shackelton's failed South Pole expedition and survival.

Seinfeld or Simpsons?
I rarely watch TV, but “Da Ali G” show is pretty awesome.

What are your future plans or goals in climbing?
To climb aesthetic routes on difficult peaks. My current goal is to improve my rock free-climbing skills because I think it would be beneficial for my alpine climbing.

Read a trip report about Colin and Rolando Garibotti's recent first ascent of the Torre Traverse in Argentine Patagonia.

 

 

Dealer Locator Newsletter Sign-up FAQs Ordering Info Warranty/Repairs Catalog Request Site Map Contact Us